Studies relating to the conservation of Miao textiles.

Chao-Chiung, J., 1998. Studies relating to the conservation of Miao textiles. PhD, Nottingham Trent University.

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This thesis reports on studies relating to the conservation of Miao textiles, which consist of indigo-dyed cotton decorated with silk-embroidered panels. In many instances the base fabric, indigo-dyed cotton, is given a finishing treatment which involves impregnating with a protein gel obtained from ox hide.

The first part of the study is an investigation of the use of microwave radiation as a means of sterilising these fabrics by destroying fungal spores without damage to the textile fibres, the protein coating, or the various dyes, including natural dyes, likely to have been used in the garments. In addition the effects of laundering and dry cleaning on components of the garments have been examined. The results show that microwave irradiation is a very efficient technique for destroying a number of fungal spores and show that although the protein coating on indigo-dyed cotton had no major effect on the wash fastness of the dye, the material having the same moderate fastness as did the sample of indigo-dyed cotton, the coating itself was resistant to the laundering treatment. The ratings for fastness to dry cleaning of the silk samples dyed with natural dyes were good-to-excellent, across all the natural dyes and dye/mordant combinations except for indigo-dyed silk.

The second part deals with a study of dyeing of chitosan, an amine-containing polysaccharide which has been proposed as both an agent for coating fibres and fabrics and for the production of fibres, with natural dyes. A range of shade have been produced using chitosan in both flake and film form and the hues obtained are, in most cases, similar to those obtained on silk. For two mordants, alum and chromium sulphate, a resist effect is found when chitosan is mordanted and dyed while still adhering to a glass plate. A mechanism involving the formation of interchain crosslinks through two or more amine groups binding to individual metal ions at the film surface. It is proposed that this effect could be used, together with the dyeability of chitosan, for design effects on chitosan fibres or chitosan-coated fibres and fabrics.

Item Type: Thesis
Description: This research programme was carried out in collaboration with the Department of Textiles and Clothing Fu Jen Catholic University, Taiwan, R.O.C.
Creators: Chao-Chiung, J.
Date: 1998
ISBN: 9781369314175
Divisions: Schools > School of Art and Design
Record created by: Jeremy Silvester
Date Added: 25 Sep 2020 12:35
Last Modified: 20 Jul 2023 10:54

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