An investigation into 3-dimensional garment pattern design.

Chen, JH-C, 1998. An investigation into 3-dimensional garment pattern design. PhD, Nottingham Trent University.

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Abstract

The 3D pattern design system (3D-PDS) has been available for the garment industry since the late eighties, but its ability to produce patterns for production use was questionable. An investigation into its limitations and potentials was made in order that future progression could be made.

The early investigation showed that 3D-PDS employed many novel disciplinary languages which would not be understood by a garment designer or pattern cutter. A mutual communication path was seen as vital for later work. The core problem was that there was inevitable electronic pattern distortions between 3D and 2D patterns, but there has been lack of a methodological process to investigate this problem.

The experiments were set up to find a solution by using manual pattern making expertise. A 3D 'solid' garment form was created manually, then was digitised using a 3D digitiser. Later, 3D-2D manual toiling expertise was used to obtain a pattern which was 'contact- fit' to the created 3D solid garment form. By developing a garment form in the real and virtual worlds, the comparison between the electronically and manually flattened patterns could be made, so that the problems of electronic pattern distortion could be identified. This investigation process was, for the very first time, based on assessing and evaluating the limitations and the potential advantages of modem 3D technology in juxtaposition with garment pattern cutting expertise.

This research found that major limitations of current 3D-PDS were: the impossibility of providing size and measurments for the digitised 3D garment stand data; the inadequacy of landmarks and grain used; the difficulty of obtaining a 3D block; the unavailability of a means of validating the pattern; finally, a pattern with quality fit could be produced only when the pattern was constracted in a precise dual bending area.

This study has provided a crucial step by which electronically flattened patterns could be investigated in practice in the real world. The accomplishment of this major step has contributed opportunities for a mutual understanding between the 3D technology industry and the garment industry for future progression to be made together.

Item Type:	Thesis
Creators:	Chen, J.H.-C.
Date:	1998
ISBN:	9781369314168
Identifiers:	Number Type PQ10183140 Other
Divisions:	Schools > School of Art and Design
Record created by:	Jeremy Silvester
Date Added:	25 Sep 2020 12:27
Last Modified:	20 Jul 2023 10:48
URI:	https://irep.ntu.ac.uk/id/eprint/40929

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