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Reynolds, Sonia Michelle, 2021. Development of a novel method of fabric manufacture for design practice (an investigation of fibre on yarn surface entanglement). PhD, Nottingham Trent University.
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Abstract
Textiles are one of mankind’s most used products, the earliest references are to the use of plants and then animal skins, these resources were the main source of shelter and protection for the body. Currently, textile fabrics are produced either using yarns or fibres, yarns are manufactured using two ancient fabric construction practices known as knitting and weaving whereas fibres are based on fibre bonding or fibre entangling; the resultant fabrics are known as nonwoven. Since the origin of textiles, the manufacturing techniques have continued to utilise these three methods: weaving, knitting and nonwoven.
This thesis demonstrates the development of a novel technique to manufacture textile fabrics, which I call ‘Fibre on Yarn Surface Entanglement’ (FOYSE). The registered process FOYSE® has been initiated through testing methods to consider how to entangle, and to explore scale and design applications. Two textile structures and tools to create them have been pioneered and these demonstrate suitability for fabric surfaces commonly used for woven and knitted textiles. The first material is registered as Zephlinear® and the second is trademarked as Hover-TexTM. These innovative textiles are an ideal structure to accommodate future demands caused by advancing technology within industry. Zephlinear is a structure suitable to support smart and intelligent textiles as demand grows for advancing wearable fabrics. Hover Tex is an ideal structure to accommodate the demand for sustainable activewear. Mixed methods is the methodology used in this research. Tensile testing provided quantitative data and structured questionnaires were used to provide qualitative data. Twelve samples underwent tensile tests and were confirmed to meet the British Test Standard ISO 2062. Each sample showed slight variations in results. For example, two samples tested in the weft direction showed a difference of 40% strain capacity. It was assumed the irregularity was the result of differing quantities of fibre on the yarn surface used for entanglement. The results from the qualitative data provided information on how individuals understood the variance of fabrics manufactured by FOYSE in relation to known fabric surfaces. In addition to the development of a novel technology, this thesis also introduces novel tools and techniques.
The FOYSE production process provides advancement to knowledge regarding how fabric from yarn can be assembled into textiles outside of the two known construction methods. Therefore, the present work introduces a fourth class of fabric surface. Thus, removing the limitations of the three known methods of manufacturing textiles. In addition, this thesis demonstrates a proof of concept for novel tools and machinery used to speed up and automate the FOYSE manufacturing process.
| Item Type: | Thesis |
|---|---|
| Creators: | Reynolds, S.M. |
| Contributors: | Name Role NTU ID ORCID |
| Date: | October 2021 |
| Rights: | This work is the intellectual property of the author. You may copy up to 5% of this work for private study, personal or non-commercial research. Any re-use of the information contained within this document should be fully referenced, quoting the author, title, university, degree level and pagination. Queries or requests for any other use, or if a more substantial copy is required, should be directed to the owner of the Intellectual Property Rights. |
| Divisions: | Schools > Nottingham School of Art & Design |
| Record created by: | Jonathan Gallacher |
| Date Added: | 14 Aug 2024 15:54 |
| Last Modified: | 14 Aug 2024 15:54 |
| URI: | https://irep.ntu.ac.uk/id/eprint/52009 |
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